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Monday 20 June 2011

MALACCA: THE VENICE OF THE EAST

" I had great experience while visiting Malacca in a short time, I just exploring tourist attractions and ate the foods that must be tried.
If I have a chance to be back I want to explore more "

2 DAYS, 1 NIGHT IN MALACCA 

This was the second time I visiteds Malacca. I used to join Malaysia land tour few years ago (Johor - Malacca - Kualalumpur - Genting - Ipoh - Penang ). This time I plan to explore Malacca by myself. 

Arrived KLIA2 International Airport and went to Malacca by bus. The travel duration for bus from KLIA or KLIA2 to Malacca is about 2.5 to 3 hours depending on traffic condition. Got off at Melaka Sentral Bus Terminal and took bus no 17 and got off at Clock Tower. 

Tang Beng Swee Clock Tower

Day 1: Peranakan Trails 

I was staying at The Baba House, an good budget hotel located near the tourist attractions and famous Jonker Street just within walking distance. The Baba House is tastefully furnished with antique furniture, Chinese and Dutch interior. 

THE BABA HOUSE 
Address: 121-127 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok, Malacca 75200 
Phone: +606 281 1216 


Front of the Baba House, Malacca 2003

I had lunch at Restoran Peranakan, when I joined a Malaysia land tour I had eaten there and I wanted to bring the memory's back. The food was delicious and recommended. 


RESTORAN PERANAKAN
Address: 107 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok, Malacca 75200 
Phone: +606 284 5001 
Opening Hours: Monday - Sunday 12:00 - 14:30 & 18:30 - 22:00

The sign

I walked along the Tun Tan Cheng Lok streets, a lot of Peranakan Houses that looks pretty and well maintenance. My eyes were fixed on the Peranakan-style tiles and windows. 


Everything was interesting
Left: Crystal House
Right: Blue House of the shoe maker
Eng Choon Association 

I visited Baba Nyonya Museum to get to know more about Peranakan culture. It turns out that descendants of Peranakan in Malacca and Penang still have ties with The Tjong A fie from Medan. 

Address: No. 48 & 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: + 606 283 1273
Opening hours: 10am - 5:00pm (last tour 4pm, last admission 4:15pm)
                          Extended Hour on Fri, Sat, Sun 
                          10am - 6:00pm (last tour 5pm, last admission 5:15pm)

The entrance

For snack time, I had wife cakes and chendol and bought some Peranakan Kuih. See AISALICIOUS FOOD IN MALACCA

Wife Cake 
Colorful Peranakan Kuih

I had dinner at Capitol Satay Celup. Satay celup is a dish where an assortment of raw and semi-cooked seafood, meat (including raw meat) and vegetables on skewers are dunked into a hot boiling pot of satay gravy. 

CAPITOL SATAY CELUP
Address: 41 Lorong Bukit Cina
Phone:606 283 5508
Opening hours: Wednesday - Monday 17:00 -23:00


seafood and vegetables ready to swim into hot boiling pot

JONKER STREET NIGHT MARKET 
Address: Jalan Hang Jebat, 75200 Malacca 
Opening Hours: 18:00 - midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

I walked along the Jonker Street Night Market would be on the list of almost all tourists itinerary in Malacca. The roads of Jalan Hang Jebat will be closed to vehicles every Friday and Saturday night. Both sides of the street will be lined up with many colourful stalls selling food, accessories, clothes, crafts and cheap keepsakes. There are too many things to see and eat. 

Jonker, Heeren and adjacent streets - This is the residential heart of Old Malacca just west of the Malacca River, with its narrow winding streets, beautifully decorated houses, tiny shops, temples and mosques. However, the area still has a lot of atmosphere and is worth having a look around.

Jonker Walk, 2010
Peranakan- style Kebaya / Kebaya Encim


Day 2: Dutch Colonial trails

On the second day I start with Chicken Rice Balls for breakfast.

Address: 18, Jalan Hang Jebat 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +606 286 0121
Opening Hours: 7:30 - 15:00

Chicken Rice Balls

DUTCH SQUARE/ RED SQUARE
Beautiful square around Christ Church and the Stadthuys. On this square you will find the Tang Beng Swee Clock Tower, it looks Dutch, but it is not. It was built in 1886. 

Address:
Opening Hours: 8:30 - 17:00 Monday to Saturday
Free admission; photography is forbidden.

This church was built between 1741 and 1753. It replaced a Portuguese church, which was shattered. Bricks were shipped from Zeeland in the Netherlands. On the floor of the church you will find Dutch tombstones. It is the oldest protestant church in Malaysia. On the altar you will see sacramental silverware, still bearing the Dutch coat of arms. 

Outside the church is a beautiful collection of potted plants and a colourful group of trishaws lined up for tourists. 

Christ Church Melaka

THE STADTHUYS
The Stadthuys (an old Dutch spelling, meaning city hall) is a historical structure situated in the heart of Malacca City, the administrative capital of the state of Malacca, Malaysia in a place known as the Red Square.[2] The Stadhuys is known for its red exterior and nearby red clocktower. It was built by the Dutch in 1650 as the office of the Dutch Governor and Deputy Governor.

PORTA DE SANTIAGO / A FAMOSA FORT
This remains of the old Portuguese fort A Famosa on Jalan Kota, around St Paul's Hill. Saint Paul's Church and Stadthuys - completed in 1660. It is a reproduction of the former Stadhuis (town hall) of the Frisian town of Hoorn in the Netherlands which existed from 1420 until 1796. This is one of the oldest Dutch buildings in the east.

SAINT PAUL CHURCH
I took a path up the hill and it will lead to this church. It was originally built in 1521, by the Portuguese. It became a fortress in 1567, until 1596. After the Dutch siege it became St Paul's, before it was known as Nossa Senhora da Annunciada (Our Lady of Annunciation). It has been used as a burial ground for the Dutch. I can still see the tombstones, along the walls of ruins of the church.


Left: Saint Francis Xavier
Right: Saint Paul Church
View from the top

BUKIT CHINA
Bukit China is the one of the largest Chinese cemetery outside of mainland China. Graves can be found here that go back to the late Ming dynasty (mid 17th century). The earliest grave found so far dates to 1622, but unfortunately many graves were exhumed during the British occupation of Malaysia. Bukit China is a famous jogging spot for the locals and jogging tracks are available all over the hill. On top of the hill, I had a nice view of the town.

Then I walked back to Jonker street to had lunch at Jonker 88. I had Baba laksa for breakfast. I was sharing table with a tourist from Taiwan, she ordered Nyonya Laksa. At the end, we have shared our food. 
Address: 88 Jalan Hang Jebat 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +60 19 397 5665
Opening Hours: 9:30 - 17:30

Baba Laksa

I rushed back to hotel and preparing to go to Airport.


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Wednesday 15 June 2011

MALACCAN FOOD

Peranakan Food is a mixture between Chin ese and Malay ingredients and recipes. A variety of delicious food that is spicy and sweet, referred to as Nyonya food. Malaccan Nyonya food is using more spices and coconut milk, the result is a sweeter blend of cooking with a fiery tinge. Malaccan dishes are definitely cooked up with more time in the kitchen, the women taking great pride in their wok.


RESTORAN PERANAKAN
Address: 107 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok, Malacca 75200 
Phone: +606 284 5001 
Opening Hours: Monday - Sunday 12:00 - 14:30 & 18:30 - 22:00

My first meal in Malacca was at Restoran Peranakan. I remembered about Ikan Chuan- Chuan (deep fried snapper with ginger sauce), Ayam Pong Teh (braised chicken, potato with fermented soy bean sauce), and Sambal Udang (spicy shrimps) . But this time I was eating alone, so I ordered simply food. I ordered Okra (lady finger) and Tenggiri Assam Pedas (Peranakan-style sour & spicy Fish). 


Top: Okra Sambal Belacan 
Bottom: Tenggiri Assam Pedas

This is the signature dish of Malacca. A very hot and mild sour fish curry making it very appetizing and is best to go with white rice. Favorite among the Peranakan community, asam pedas is the perfect representation of their cuisine. All the spices and flavours that Peranakan cuisine is so famed for were in play: sweet, sour, spicy, and savoury.

Eating at Restoran Peranakan was a wonderful experience. The restaurant decorated with rare antiques such as a traditional wedding sedan and an Peranakan wooden bed.


Left:Antique decorations
Right: Traditional Peranakan wedding sedan



NYONYA KUIH
BABA CHARLIE NYONYA CAKE 
Address: 72 Jalan Tengkera, Pantai 2C, 75200 Malacca 
Phone: +60 19-666 2907 
Opening Hours: 10.30am to 3pm daily. Closed on Thursdays. 

Nyonya Kuih (kuih is a term for Malay cakes) are bite-sized dessert that are colorful and popularly taken as a snack. Some are steamed, some grilled but most are sweet. I watched Little Nyonya drama series and I was curious about the taste of Lempah Udang. (steamed glutinous rice roll stuffed with desiccated coconut filling).

Colorful Nyonya Kuih
Lempah Udang


JONKER 88
Address: 88 Jalan Hang Jebat 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +60 19 397 5665
Opening Hours: 9:30 - 17:30

While exploring the streets of Malacca under the scorching hot sun, Jonker 88 is a good spot to take a break. Jonker 88 with rustic and nostalgic interiors. The place runs is like self-service food court where we have to find our own tables before queuing up at the stalls to buy food. 

Baba Chendol, a traditional dessert made from green starched noodles with pandan flavoring, red beands, shaved ice, coconut milk, and gula Melaka (palm sugar). Each spoonful leaves behind a lingering sweetness and a creamy aftertaste from the fresh coconut milk. 


Baba Chendol

Baba Laksa & Nyonya Assam Laksa. Brimming with ingredients, these assorted laksa broth are extremely addictive. Baba Laksa more creamier with an additional dash of coconut milk. Nyonya Laksa is more sour than spicy due to tamarind juice added. 


Top: Nyonya Assam Laksa with prawn, egg, and bean curd skin
Bottom: Baba Laksa with stronger coconut milk 

You can option for the Baba Laksa Kahwin Nyonya Assam Laksa which consists of a mixed broth from both the Baba and Nyonya Laksa.


CHUNG WAH CHICKEN RICE BALLS
Address: 18, Jalan Hang Jebat 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +606 286 0121
Opening Hours: 7:30 - 15:00

This is a dish of Chinese origin and is most commonly associated with Hainanese cuisine. Steamed Hainanese chicken rice was originally shaped into balls. I ordered half portion Hainanese Chicken Rice Balls. Steamed chicken, together with super soft rice balls and their homemade chili sauce mixture of red chilies, garlic, ginger, and a touch of lime.


Left: Chicken Rice Balls
Right: Early morning before long queue

The chicken rice balls were moist, slightly sticky and full of fragrance, so much so you can eat it on its own. The chicken was juicy and the soy-based dipping sauce was delicately salty, with a lingering sweet after-taste. 


CAPITOL SATAY CELUP
Address: 41 Lorong Bukit Cina
Phone:606 283 5508
Opening hours: Wednesday - Monday 17:00 -23:00

Satay celup is an assortment of raw and semi-cooked seafood, meat and vegetables on skewers are dunked into a hot boiling pot of satay gravy. The best part of Capitol Satay Celup is their authentic peanut sauce rich with crushed peanut, spicy and sweet flavor.


Left: Ready to swim into hot boiling peanut sauce pot
Right: Ready to eat

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